LÁRISSA stands at the heart of the Thessalian plain: a large market centre approached across a prosperous but dull landscape of wheat and corn fields. It is also a major garrison town: army camps surround it, the airport remains reserved for use by the Greek Air Force, and the Thessalonian writer Yorgos Ioannou, rusticated here in 1958 as a teacher, slammed Lárissa as an "arrogant, nouveau-riche provincial town full of horrific army officers and their majestic wives". The southwestern part of the city - for such it is now, with nearly half a million inhabitants - is dominated by ranks of military housing, and a particularly nasty piece of graffiti by the north-south through road ("A bullet in the head for every Turk") would seem to suggest that international peace and friendship is not uppermost on everyone's minds here.

 

Despite such unpromising impressions, undeniably modern and unremarkable Lárissa retains a few old streets that hint at its less recent past as ancient/Byzantine Larissa, and later an Ottoman provincial capital called Yenisehir. The highest point of the town - the ancient acropolis of Áyios Ahíllios - is dominated by the remains of a medieval kástro (closed to the public) and the foundations of an ancient Athena temple . Just south and below are the excavated and fairly impressive remains of the ancient theatre . Further south in the flatlands, the city centre consists of a pair of landscaped squares (Sapká and Makaríou), connected by pedestrianized streets lined with the usual upmarket boutiques.

Save an hour for the archeological museum at 31-Avgoústou 2 (Tues-Sun 8.30am-3pm; free), with its fascinating collection of Neolithic finds and grave stelae . The modern Greek paintings in the pinakothíki (Tues-Sun 10.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-8.30pm, Sat & Sun am only; ¬0.40), at Roosevelt 59, are considered second only to those in the National Gallery in Athens. Otherwise, the Alkazar park beside the Piniós, Thessaly's major river, remains relatively cool throughout the summer, when Lárissa as a whole bakes.

As a major road and rail junction , the town has efficient connections with most places you'd want to reach: Vólos to the east; Tríkala and Kalambáka to the west; Lamía to the south; the Vale of Témbi, Mount Olympus and Thessaloníki along the national highway to the northeast. The main KTEL is on Yeoryiádhou, about 200m east of the acropolis, but all buses towards Tríkala leave from a substation on Iróön Polytekhníou southwest of the centre, near the military housing, and a few other random services use a third stop on Ptoleméou, opposite the train station , 1km southeast of the central plazas.

You probably won't need or choose to stay in Lárissa, but if you do there are numerous, often pricey hotels . Among a trio of D-class places in the square by the train station, the Pantheon (tel 0410/236 726; ¬24-33) is probably the most appealing. More central, savoury options, also handy for the main KTEL station, include the Lido at Iféstou 2 (tel 0410/255 097; ¬34-42), more or less opposite the ancient theatre, or the Acropole nearby, towards the river at Venizélou 142 (tel 0410/536 315; ¬24-58). For a bit more comfort, the Adonis on Alékou Papagoúli 8A (tel 0410/534 648; ¬43-58) is fine, its underground garage a blessing in a town with difficult parking.

As so often in untouristed parts of the mainland, eating is more apt to be rewarding than staying. By far the best lunch stop is Tsipouradhiko To Spitaki , 3km northeast in the suburb refugee village of Yiannoúli (#17 or #9 city bus). At no. 45 (west side) of the through road, it's the sort of place where local business- and tradesmen drink the afternoon away, but everyone's welcome and the fare - strong on seafood - is some of the best on the mainland: toúrsi (pickled vegetables) and salt herring included with your karafáki, tyrokafterí , fried vegetable slivers, butterflied fresh sardines in herbs, lemon and oil, plus a house sweet for about ¬11. Back in town, the kultúra taverna niche is occupied by Rodhi (daily except Sun/Mon lunch), on a little alley just off Filellínon on the acropolis hill, where carefully presented mayireftá will run ¬15 and up. It's the only real eatery along pedestrianized Filellínon, home to much of Lárissa's after-dark bar and café life. Trendy daytime cafés are on Platía Makaríou, which features several fountains, flowerbeds and statues, plus tables shaded by smart white umbrellas.