PYLOS
is a
little
like a
small-scale,
less
sophisticated
Náfplio
- quite
a
stylish
town for
rural
Messinía.
It is
guarded
by a
pair of
medieval
castles
and
occupies
a superb
position
on one
of the
finest
natural
harbours
in
Greece,
the
landlocked
Navarino
Bay
. Given
the
town's
romantic
associations
with the
Battle
of
Navarino,
and,
more
anciently,
with
Homer's
"sandy
Pylos",
the
domain
of "wise
King
Nestor"
whose
palace
has been
identified
16km to
the
north,
it makes
a great
base for
exploring
this
part of
the
Peloponnese,
particularly
if
equipped
with a
car or
scooter
- both
of which
can be
rented
here.
Relying
on
public
transport
you'll
find the
long
afternoon
gaps in
services
make
complex
day-trips
impractical.
The
Town
The main
pleasures
of Pylos
are
exploring
the
hillside
alleys,
waterside
streets
and
fortress.
Getting
your
bearings
is easy
as it's
not a
large
town,
and the
buses
drop you
at the
inland
end of
the
central
Platía
Trión
Navárhon
which
faces
the port.
Shaded
by a
vast
plane
tree and
scented
by
limes,
Platía
Trión
Navárhon
is a
beautiful
public
platía,
completely
encircled
by cafés
and very
much the
heart of
the town.
At its
centre
is a
war
memorial
commemorating
admirals
Codrington,
de Rigny
and von
Heyden,
who
commanded
the
British,
French
and
Russian
forces
in the
Battle
of
Navarino.
Nearby,
just
uphill
on the
Methóni
road,
the
little
Antonopouleion
Museum
(Tues-Sun
8.30am-3pm;
¬1.50)
boasts
remains
from the
battle,
along
with
archeological
finds
from the
region.
Further
memories
of the
Navarino
battles
can be
evoked
by a
visit to
the
island
of
Sfaktiría
, across
the bay,
where
there
are
various
tombs of
Philhellenes,
a chapel
and a
memorial
to
Russian
sailors.
You can
hire a
boat
from the
port and
also
snorkel
to see
the
remains
of the
Turkish
fleet
lying on
the sea
bed; ask
at the
harbourmaster's
office
or cafés
by the
port.
The
principal
sight in
town,
however,
is the
Néo
Kástro
(Tues-Sun
8.30am-3pm;
¬2.50),
close by
the port
on the
south
side of
the bay
(further
up the
Methóni
road).
The
hugely
spreading
"new
castle"
was
built by
the
Turks in
1572,
and
allows a
walk
around
much of
the
1500m of
arcaded
battlements,
although
unsafe
segments
are now
closed.
For much
of the
eighteenth
and
nineteenth
centuries,
it
served
as a
prison
and its
inner
courtyard
was
divided
into a
warren
of
narrow
yards
separated
by high
walls, a
design
completely
at odds
with
most
Greek
prisons,
which
were
fairly
open on
the
inside.
This
peculiar
feature
is
explained
by the
garrison's
proximity
to the
Máni. So
frequently
was it
filled
with
Maniots
imprisoned
for
vendettas,
and so
great
was the
crop of
internal
murders,
that
these
pens had
to be
built to
keep the
imprisoned
clansmen
apart.
The pens
and
walls
have
been
pulled
down as
part of
an
ongoing
programme
to
restore
and
convert
the
castle
into a
planned
museum
for
underwater
archeology.
So far,
the only
attraction
is a
collection
of René
Puaux
pictures
of the
1821
revolution.