The
stretch
of
coast
between
Pylos
and
Pyrgos
is
defined
by its
beaches
, which
are on a
different
scale to
those
elsewhere
in the
Peloponnese,
or
indeed
anywhere
else in
Greece -
fine
sands,
long
enough (and
undeveloped
enough)
to
satisfy
the most
jaded
Australian
or
Californian.
Their
relative
anonymity
is
something
of a
mystery,
though
one
accounted
for in
part by
poor
communications.
For
those
without
transport
this
entails
slow and
patient
progress
along
the main
"coast"
road,
which
for much
of the
way runs
two to
five
kilometres
inland,
and a
walk
from
road
junction
to beach.
Heading
north
from the
Bay of
Voïdhokiliá,
near the
turning
inland
to
Korifássi
and
Nestor's
Palace,
you can
take a
paved
road,
flanked
by
orange
and
olive
orchards.
This
keeps
close to
the sea
for most
of the
way to
Kyparissía,
allowing
access
to
isolated
beaches
and
villages.
If
you're
travelling
to
Olympia
by
train
from
this
coast
(once
the
Pyrgos-Olympia
service
is
reinstated),
you can
save the
detour
to
Pyrgos (not
an
exhilarating
town) by
getting
a
connection
at
Alfiós,
a tiny
station
at the
junction
of the
Olympia
line and
as
bucolic
a halt
as any
on the
network
(but not
to be
confused
with
next
stop
Alfioúsa
station).
Alfiós
is
eleven
minutes
down the
line
from
Pyrgos,
and 25
from
Olympia.