Coming from Kavála, after the turning to the airport and shortly after the turning to Keramotí you cross the Néstos River, which with the Rodhópi mountains forms the border of Greek Thrace. The Greek/Turkish, Christian/Muslim demographics are almost immediately apparent in the villages: the Turkish settlements, long established, with their tiled, whitewashed houses and pencil-thin minarets; the Greek ones, often adjacent, built in drab modern style for the refugees of the 1920s.