Thessaloníki is the fulcrum, and focus, to travel in northern Greece. The train ride west from here to Flórina via the appealing town of Édhessa and Lake Vegorítidha, is one of the most scenic in the country. Kastoriá , for those who like their towns remote and speckled with Byzantine monuments, is also highly rewarding. Way up in the northwestern corner, the secluded Préspa lakes , straddling the frontiers of three countries, constitute one of the finest wildlife refuges in the Balkans, but are virtually inaccessible unless you have your own transport. The biggest natural attraction in this part of Macedonia, however, has to be Mount Olympus (Óros Ólymbos); the fabled home of the gods soars high above the town of Litóhoro , easily approached from the highway or rail line between Thessaloníki and Lárissa. Near the town of Véria , another transport hub, lie the region's most fascinating ancient finds, the tombs of Philip II of Macedonia and other members of his dynasty at Veryína . Macedonia's southwestern reaches, around Kozáni , are less interesting, despite some fine views towards the natural barrier of the Píndhos mountains.