An alternative way of reaching Kavála and/or Xánthi is the busy but scenic route that climbs northeast out of Thessaloníki, first taking you via the prosperous but not terribly interesting town of Sérres before heading towards Dhráma and Philippi along a quieter road that offers majestic panoramas of Mount Meníkio (1963m), Mount Pangéo (1956m) and Mount Falakró (2230m). Regular buses from Thessaloníki and between Sérres and Dhráma ply the road.

 

Just over 20km before you reach Sérres you come to the village of ALISTRÁTI , a pleasant cluster of houses blessed with one or two decent tavernas . The only hotel is a delightfully restored mansion, Arhondiko Voziki (tel 03240/20 400, fax 20 408, www.hotelboziki.gr ; ¬59-72), with beautifully furnished rooms and a swimming pool. The village is well placed for exploring the nearby mountains. The main reason for coming here, though, is to visit the impressive caves (9am-7pm Easter to Sept 30; 9am-5pm rest of year; guided tours only, 1hr; ¬6 with reductions; www.alistraticave.gr ), reached down a scenic side road 6km southeast of the village. First explored in the mid-1970s, these impressive caves, which easily rival those at Pérama, are claimed to be the most extensive of their kind in Europe not requiring special speleogical equipment or training to visit. Dating from the Quaternary Period, these gigantic limestone cavities are over two million years old, and bristle with a variety of wonderful formations, including the relatively rare "eccentrites" and "helictites", respectively stalactites sticking out at angles, rather than hanging vertically, and twisted forms resembling branches. The impressive entrance, a long tunnel bored into the hillside, takes you right into the caverns, and a winding path weaves its way through masses of stalagmites, many of them outstandingly beautiful, and some exceeding 15m in length.