North and inland from Zákynthos Town, the roads thread their way through luxuriantly fertile farmland, punctuated with tumulus-like hills. Tsiliví , 5km north of the capital, is the first beach resort here, which has now effectively merged with the hamlet of PLÁNOS and matches Argássi for development. Unfortunately, this part of the coastline suffers from occasional oil pollution, with nothing but the winter storms to clear it. There's a good, basic campsite , Zante Camping (tel 06950/61 710), beyond Plános, and, for a prime package-tour location, a surprising variety of accommodation - try the beachside Anetis Hotel (tel 06950/44 590, fax 28 758; ¬43-58), which has air-conditioning and TV in all rooms; Gregory's rooms (tel 06950/61 853; ¬34-42); or contact Tsilivi Travel (tel 06950/44 194, fax 22 655), on the inland road in from town. The Olive Tree taverna is the best of a touristy bunch, while the Mandarin Chinese is fairly authentic. Pubs such as The Local and Red Lion tend to be Brit-oriented.

 

The beaches further along this stretch of coast become progressively quieter and pleasanter, and they all have at least a smattering of accommodation and restaurants to choose from. Good choices include Pahiá Ámmos , with the Pension Petra (tel 06950/61 175; ¬34-42) and Porto Roulis fish taverna. Also recommended is Dhrossiá , where you can find the Avouris (tel 06950/61 716; ¬34-42) and Drosia apartments (tel 06950/62 256; ¬43-58) and eat at another popular fish taverna, Andreas .