Most visitors arrive at the New Port 1km north of GÁÏOS , a pleasant town built around a small square on the seafront overlooking two islands, Áyios Nikólaos and Panayía. Room owners often meet ferries, although it's advisable to phone ahead: try Gaïos Travel (tel 06620/32 033, fax 32 175, gaiostrv@otenet.gr ) or Bouas Tours (tel 06620/32 401, fax 32 610, info@bouastours.gr ), both situated on the seafront. Paxí's two seasonal hotels are both near Gáïos: the Paxos Beach Hotel (tel 06620/31 211, fax 32 695, zerbas1@otenet.gr ; ¬73 and upwards half-board) which has smart en-suite bungalows on a hillside above a pebbly beach 2km south of town, and the fairly luxurious Paxos Club Hotel (tel 06620/32 450, fax 32 097; ¬73 and upwards), 2km inland from Gáïos.

 

Gáïos boasts a number of decent tavernas , most of which are on the pricey side. One exception is the friendly family-run Acropol , on a side street off the square, which serves wholesome meat, fish and veg dishes at very reasonable rates. Also recommended are Dodo's , set in a garden inland from the Anemoyiannis statue; the Volcano , which is the best of those on the square; and Vassilis , which has the best selection and prices of the trio to the left of the road up towards the bus stop. The Cellar at the top of the square is the best place for a tasty souvláki . Other options include the Blue Grotto , in an alleyway off the square, or Carcoleggio's , 1.5km out of town towards Bogdhanátika, popular with locals for its grills. The two kafenía, the Gonia by the old ferry ramp and the unnamed one opposite the Acropol are the traditional places for a coffee or drink. Trendier bars include Carnayo near the square and Deep Blue round the quay towards the new port. The Phoenix disco out by the new port opens sporadically after midnight and has a terrace for sublunar fun, while the inland Tango , beyond the bus stop, is a more regular disco.

Inland are some of the island's oldest settlements, such as Oziás and Vellianitátika, in prime walking country, but with few if any facilities. Noel Rochford's book, Landscapes of Paxos (Sunflower), lists dozens of walks, and cartographers Elizabeth and Ian Bleasdale's Paxos Walking Map is on sale in most travel agencies.