Tsoukaládhes , just 6km from Lefkádha, is developing a roadside tourism business, but better beaches lie a short distance to the south, so there's very little reason to stay here. Four kilometres on, the road plunges down to the sand-and-pebble Pefkoúlia beach , one of the longest on the island, with two tavernas at the north end, one of which, Mesoyios , has rooms (tel 06450/97 070, fax 97 170; ¬43-58) and unofficial camping down at the other end, about 2km away.

 

Jammed into a gorge between Pefkoúlia and the next beach, Mylos, is AÏ NIKÍTAS , the prettiest resort on Lefkádha, a jumble of lanes and small wooden buildings. The back of the village is a dust-blown car park, which detracts from the appeal of the pleasant, if basic, O Aï Nikitas   campsite (tel 06450/97 301, fax 21 173), set in terraced olive groves. The most attractive accommodation is in the Pension Ostria (tel 06450/97 483, fax 97 300; ¬43-58), a beautiful blue-and-white building above the village decorated in a mix of beachcomber and ecclesiastical styles. The Villa Milia (tel 06450/97 475; ¬34-42), by the junction, or the Elena patisserie (tel 06450/97 385; ¬34-42) offer better rates than most. Other options are in the alleys that run off the main drag; the best bets are the small Hotel Selene (tel 06450/97 369; ¬43-58) and quieter Olive Tree (tel 06450/97 453, fax 97 153; ¬43-58), which is also signposted from the main road. The best tavernas include the Sapfo fish taverna by the sea and the T'Agnantia , just above the main street, which serves excellent traditional cuisine. Captain's Corner near the beach is the liveliest drinking venue.

Sea taxis (¬1.50 one-way) ply between Aï Nikítas and Mylos beach, or it's a 45-minute walk (or bus ride) to the most popular beach on the coast, Káthisma , a shadeless kilometre of fine sand, which becomes nudist and a lot less crowded beyond the large jutting rocks halfway along. There are two tavernas on the beach: the barn-like Kathisma Beach (tel 06450/97 050, fax 97 335; ¬59-72), with smart apartments, and the expensive and unfriendly Akroyiali . Above the beach the Sunset has rooms (tel 06450/97 488; ¬43-58) and the Balkoni restaurant commands fine views. Beyond Káthisma, hairpin bends climb the flank of Mount Méga towards the small village of KALAMÍTSI , a much cheaper base for this area: Spyros Karelis (tel 06450/99 214; ¬24-33) and Spyros Veryinis (tel 06450/99 411; ¬24-33) have rooms. Hermes (tel 06450/99 417; ¬24-33), the Blue and White House (tel 06450/99 413; ¬34-42) and Pansion Nontas (tel 06450/99 451; ¬34-42) have larger rooms and apartments. There are also three good tavernas: the Paradeisos in its own garden with fountain, the more basic Ionio and, just north of the village, the aptly titled Panoramic View . Three kilometres down a newly paved road is the village's quiet sandy beach.

South of Kalamítsi, past the hamlets of Hortáta, which boasts the excellent Lygos taverna with rooms (tel 06450/33 395; ¬24-33), and Komíli, the landscape becomes almost primeval. At 38km from Lefkádha Town, ATHÁNI is Lefkádha's most remote spot to stay, with a couple of good tavernas which both have great-value rooms: the Panorama (tel 06450/33 291, fax 33 476; ¬24-33) and O Alekos (tel 06560/33 484; ¬24-33), the latter only open in high season. Three of the Ionian's choicest beaches , each with basic refreshment facilities, are accessible from Atháni: the nearest, reached by a 4km paved road is Yialós , followed by Egremní , down a steep incline unpaved for the last 2km. Further south an asphalted road leads to the dramatic and popular twin beach of Pórto Katsíki , where there are several better-stocked kantínas on the cliff above.

Keeping to the main road for 14km from Atháni will bring you to barren Cape Lefkátas , which drops abruptly 75m into the sea. Byron's Childe Harold sailed past this point, and "saw the evening star above, Leucadia's far projecting rock of woe: And hail'd the last resort of fruitless love". The fruitless love is a reference to Sappho, who in accordance with the ancient legend that you could cure yourself of unrequited love by leaping into these waters, leapt - and died. In her honour the locals termed the place Kávos tís Kyrás ("lady's cape"), and her act was imitated by the lovelorn youths of Lefkádha for centuries afterwards. And not just by the lovelorn, for the act (known as katapondismós ) was performed annually by scapegoats - always a criminal or a lunatic - selected by priests from the Apollo temple whose sparse ruins lie close by. Feathers and even live birds were attached to the victims to slow their descent and boats waiting below took the chosen one, dead or alive, away to some place where the evil banished with them could do no further harm. The rite continued into the Roman era, when it degenerated into little more than a fashionable stunt by decadent youth. These days, in a more controlled modern re-enactment, Greek hang-gliders hold a tournament from the cliffs every July.