Lefkádha's east coast is the most accessible and the most developed part of the island. Apart from the campsites at Karyótes ( Kariotes Beach , tel & fax 06450/71 103) and Epískopos ( Episcopos Beach , tel 06450/71 388), there's little point stopping before the small fishing ports of LIYIÁ , which has some rooms and the hotel Konaki (tel 06450/71 127, fax 71 125; ¬73 and upwards), or NIKIÁNA , where you'll find the hotel Pegasus (tel 06450/71 766, fax 25 290; ¬73 and upwards) and the smarter but considerably cheaper Ionion (tel 06450/71 721, fax 71 852; ¬59-72), as well as the Porto Fino pension (tel 06450/71 389; ¬34-42). In addition, Nikiána has a selection of fine tavernas, notably the Pantazis , which also has rooms to let, and the Lefko Akroyiali , a good fish restaurant further south. Beaches here tend to be pebbly and small.

 

Most package travellers will find themselves in NYDHRÍ , the coast's biggest resort, with ferry connections to Meganíssi and myriad boat trips around the nearby satellite islands. The German archeologist Wilhelm Dörpfeld believed Nydhrí, rather than Itháki, to be the site of Odysseus's capital, and did indeed find Bronze Age tombs on the plain nearby. His theory identifying ancient Ithaca with Lefkádha fell into disfavour after his death in 1940, although his obsessive attempts to give the island some status over its neighbour are honoured by a statue on Nydhrí's quay. Dörpfeld's tomb is tucked away at Ayía Kyriakí on the opposite side of the bay, near the house in which he once lived, visible just above the chapel and lighthouse on the far side of the water.

Nydhrí is an average resort, with some good pebble beaches and a lovely setting, but the centre is an ugly strip with heavy traffic. The best place to stay is the Hotel Gorgona (tel 06450/92 197, fax 92 268; ¬34-42), set in a lush garden away from the traffic a minute along the Ráhi road, which leads to Nydhrí's very own waterfall , a 45-minute walk inland. There are also rooms in the centre - try Emilios Gazis (tel 06450/92 703; ¬24-33) and Athanasios Konidharis (tel 06450/92 749; ¬34-42). The town's focus is the Aktí Aristotéli Onássi quay, where most of the rather ritzy restaurants and bars are found. The Barrel and Il Sappore restaurants are pricey but recommended, as is the Agra on the beach, slightly less so George's . However, eating is better value on the noisy main drag - try Agrabeli or Ta Kalamia . Nightlife centres around bars like No Name and Byblos , and the late-night Status or Tropicana .

Nydhrí sits at the mouth of a deep inlet stretching to the next village, somnolent VLYHÓ , with a few good tavernas and mooring for yachts. Over the Yéni peninsula across the inlet is the large Dhessími Bay , home to two campsites: Santa Maura Camping (tel 06450/95 007, fax 95 493), and Dessimi Beach Camping (tel 06450/95 374, fax 95 190), one at each end of the beach but often packed with outsized mobile homes. The Pirofani beach taverna in between them is excellent.

The coast road beyond Vlyhó turns inland and climbs the foothills of Mount Stavrotás, through the hamlets of Katohóri and Paliokatoúna to Póros , a quiet village with few facilities. Just south of here is the increasingly busy beach resort of MIKRÓS YIALÓS , boasting a handful of tavernas , a few rooms at Oceanis Studios (tel & fax 06450/95 095; ¬43-58), plus the posh Poros Beach Camping (tel 06450/95 452, fax 95 152), which has bungalows (¬43-58), shops and a pool. For food, try the Rouda Bay taverna opposite the beach, which also has rooms (tel & fax 06450/95 634, manolitsis@otenet.gr ; ¬59-72).

A panoramic detour off the main road to quiet Vournikás and Syvros is recommended to walkers and drivers (the Lefkádha-Vassilíki bus also visits); both places have tavernas and some private rooms. It's around 14km to the next resort, the fjord-like inlet of SYVOTA , 2km down a steep hill (bus twice daily). There's no beach except for a remote cove, but some fine fish tavernas: the Ionion is the most popular, but the Delfinia and Kavos are also good. Ask at the Delfinia or the adjacent Yiannis supermarket for rooms (tel 06450/31 180, fax 31 050; ¬34-42), or there's a basic unofficial campsite by the bus stop at the edge of the village.

Beyond the Syvota turning, the mountain road dips down towards Kondárena, almost a suburb of VASSILIKÍ , the island's premier watersports resort. Winds in the huge bay draw vast numbers of windsurfers, with light morning breezes for learners and tough afternoon blasts for advanced surfers. Booking your accommodation ahead is mandatory in high season. Hotels are not cheap: Pension Hollidays (tel 06450/31 011; ¬43-58), round the corner from the ferry dock, is a reasonable option with air conditioning and TV in all rooms. Also good value for its rating is slightly more upmarket Hotel Apollo (tel 06450/31 122, fax 31 142; ¬43-58) nearby. In the centre of town, the two main hotels are the smart and reasonably priced Vassiliki Bay Hotel (tel 06450/21 567, fax 23 567; ¬43-58) and the Hotel Lefkatas (tel 06450/31 801, fax 31 804; ¬59-72), a large, modern building overlooking the busiest road in town. Rooms and apartments are available along the beach road to Póndi: Billy's House (tel 06450/31 418; ¬34-42) and Christina Politi's Rooms (tel 06450/31 440; ¬34-42) are smart and purpose-built or ask at the central Samba Tours (tel 06450/31 520). The largest of the three beach windsurf centres, Club Vassiliki , offers all-in windsurf tuition and accommodation deals. Vassilikí's only campsite , the large Camping Vassiliki Beach (tel 06450/31 308, fax 31 458), is about 500m along the beach road; it has its own restaurant, bar and shop.

Vassilikí's pretty quayside is lined with tavernas and bars, notably the Dolphin Psistaria , the glitzier Restaurant Miramare , specializing in fish, the Penguin and Alexander , which has pizza, as well as the Jasmine Garden Chinese. The best place for a drink is Livanakis kafenío (next to the bakery), now modernized but still genuine and cheap.

The beach at Vassilikí is stony and poor, but improves 1km on at tiny PÓNDI ; most non-windsurfers, however, use the daily kaïki trips to nearby Ayiófili or around Cape Lefkátas to the superior beaches at Pórto Katsíki and Egremní on the sandy west coast. There's a gradually increasing number of places to stay at Póndi, some with great views of the bay and plain behind, particularly from the terrace of the Ponti Beach Hotel (tel 06450/31 572, fax 31 576; ¬59-72), which is very popular with holidaying Greeks, and has a decent restaurant and bar. The Nefeli (tel 06450/31 515; ¬34-42), right on the beach, is much better value though.