Most boats dock at the large and functional port town of SÁMI , built and later rebuilt near the south end of the Itháki straits, more or less on the site of ancient Sami. This was the capital of the island in Homeric times, when Kefalloniá was part of Ithaca's maritime kingdom: today the administrative hierarchy is reversed, Itháki being considered the backwater. With the only ferry link to Pátra, frequent connections to Itháki and direct links to Italy, the town is clearly preparing itself for a burgeoning future. The long sandy beach that stretches round the bay is quite adequate; 2km beyond ancient Sami, lies a fine pebble beach, Andísami .

 

The town has three big hotels : the Sami Beach (tel 06740/22 802, fax 22 846, samibeach@otenet.gr ; ¬73 and upwards) and friendly Athina Beach (tel 06740/23 066, fax 23 040; ¬59-72), both actually situated at the far end of the beach in Karavómylos, and the Pericles (tel 06740/22 780, fax 22 787; ¬59-72), over 1km along the Argostóli road, which has extensive grounds, two pools and sports facilities. The best mid-range bet is the Ionion (tel 06740/22 035; ¬34-42), followed by the Melissani (tel & fax 06740/22 464; ¬43-58), both behind the seafront; on the front itself the Kastro (tel 06740/22 282, fax 23 004; ¬43-58) is very comfortable. Both períptera on the quay offer rooms, as do a variety of private homes a few blocks back from the front. Sámi's campsite , Camping Karavomilos Beach (tel 06740/22 480, fax 22 932), has over 300 well-shaded spaces, a taverna, shop and bar, and opens onto the beach. It is by far the better of the island's two official sites.

Sámi doesn't have a great many tavernas beyond those on the seafront; visitors tend to go to the slightly touristic Adonis or the Dolphins , but cheaper and more genuine choices are Gorgona and O Faros , both with a good selection of veg and meat dishes, including the famous local meat pie. Better still, head further towards the beach to the Akroyiali , where you can sample fresh seafood, succulent meat dishes and good local wine. The Riviera and Aqua Marina are the favourite bars in the evenings, while the best place for a snack breakfast or ice cream is Captain Jimmy's . The seafront Sami Center (tel 06740/22 254) rents out motorbikes at fair rates.