Half-hourly ferries (hourly in winter) ply between the capital and LIXOÚRI throughout the day until midnight. The town was flattened by earthquakes, and hasn't risen much above two storeys since. It's a little drab, but has good restaurants, quiet hotels and is favoured by those who want to explore the eerie quakescapes left in the south and the barren north of the peninsula. Hotels are not especially plentiful or cheap, but two comfortable air-conditioned options are the La Cité (tel 06710/92 701, fax 92 702; 43-58), four blocks back from the front, and a beach hotel just south of town, Summery (tel 06710/91 771, fax 91 062; 43-58). Two agencies offer cheaper accommodation in town: A. D. Travel (tel 06710/93 142, fax 92 663; from 24) on the main road through town, and Perdikis Travel (tel 06710/91 097, fax 92 503; from 34-42) on the quay. Among the tavernas, Akrogiali on the seafront is excellent and cheap, drawing admirers from all over the island. Iy Avli , on the block behind, serves a variety of dishes in a leafy garden, while Adonis is a good basic psistariá at the back of the square. Adagio is the trendy place to drink on the square, but the seafront has a couple of much more genuine kafenía.

 

Lixoúri's nearest beach is Lípedha , a two-kilometre walk south. Like the Xí and Mégas Lákkos beaches (served by bus from Lixoúri and both with restaurants and accommodation), it has rich-red sand and is backed by low cliffs. Those with transport can also strike out for the monastery at Kipouréon , and north to the spectacular beach at Petaní , where there are two reasonable restaurants, the further of which, Xougras , has rooms, courtesy of Greek-American Dina (tel 06710/97 128; 34-42), and makes a tremendous place for a relaxed stay.