The journey between Argostóli and Fiskárdho, by regular bus or rented vehicle, is the most spectacular ride in the archipelago. Leaving town, the road rises into the Evmorfía foothills and, beyond Agónas, clings to near-sheer cliffs as it heads for Dhivaráta, which has a smattering of rooms and is the stop for Myrtos beach . It's a four-kilometre hike down on foot (you can also drive down), with just one taverna on the beach, but from above or below this is the most dramatic beach in the Ionian islands - a splendid strip of pure-white sand and pebbles. Sadly, it's shadeless and gets mighty crowded in high season.

 

Six kilometres on is the turning for the atmospheric village of ÁSSOS , clinging to a small isthmus between the island and a huge hill crowned by a ruined fort. Accommodation is scarce - villagers invariably send you to Andhreas Rokos' rooms (tel 06740/51 523; up to ¬24) on the approach road, which are great value, or you can opt for the posher Kanakis Apartments opposite (tel 06740/51 631, fax 51 660; ¬59-72). Ássos has a small pebble beach, and three tavernas, notably the Nefeli and the Platanos Grill , on a plane-shaded village square backed by mansions, mostly now restored after being ruined in the quake. It can get a little claustrophobic, but there's nowhere else like it in the Ionian islands.