AYÍA EFIMÍA , 9km north of Sámi, is a friendly little fishing harbour popular with package operators, yet with no major developments. Its two drawbacks are its beaches - the largest, Paradise beach, is around 20m of shingle, although there are other coves to the south - and its poor transport connections (only two daily buses to Sámi and Fiskárdho). Accommodation here is good at two small, smart hotels : Pyllaros (tel 06740/61 800, fax 61 801; ¬73 and upwards) and the better-value Moustakis (tel & fax 06740/61 030; ¬43-58) or the apartments of Yerasimos Raftopoulos (tel 06740/61 233, fax 61 216; ¬43-58). The Dendrinos   taverna , round the headland past the harbour, is the place for island cuisine; the Pergola also has a wide range of island specialities and standard Greek dishes. Predictably, the café-bar where the film crew and actors used to hang out has been renamed Captain Corelli's . The town's nightclub is Paranoia , 700m out of town towards Fiskárdho. The Strawberry zaharoplastío is the place for a filling breakfast.