Ferries from Pátra, Astakós and a minority of those from Kefalloniá land at the main port and capital of VATHY (Itháki Town), a bay within a bay so deep that few realize the mountains out "at sea" are actually the north of the island. This snug town is compact, relatively traffic-free and boasts the most idyllic seafront setting of all the Ionian capitals. Like its southerly neighbours, it was damaged by the 1953 earthquake, but some fine examples of pre-quake architecture remain here and in the northern port of Kióni . Vathy has a small archeological museum on Odhós Kalliníkou (Tues-Sun 8am-2.30pm; free), a short block back from the quay. There are banks, a post office, police and a medical centre in town.

 

Vathy now has three hotels : the old but air-conditioned Mentor (tel 06740/32 433, fax 32 293; 59-72) at the left end of the seafront, the newer Omirikon (tel 06740/33 598, fax 33 596; 73 and upwards) further on round the bay, and much better-value Captain Yiannis (tel 06740/33 173, fax 32 849; 43-58), complete with pool. Room owners meet ferries until the end of the season, but you can also call ahead to Vassiliki Vlassopoulou (tel 06740/32 119; 34-42), whose rooms are in pleasant gardens by the church above the quay. The town's two main quayside travel agents, Polyctor Tours (tel 06740/33 120, fax 33 130, polyctor@otenet.gr ) and Delas Tours (tel 06740/32 104, fax 33 031, delas@otenet.gr ) both offer a range of accommodation throughout the island.

Even though it's tiny, Vathy has a wealth of tavernas and bars . Many locals head off south around the bay towards Gregory's , popular for its lamb and fish, and the more traditional Tziribis and O Vrachos . In town, the excellent O Nikos fills early, while To Kohili is the best of the half-dozen harbourside tavernas. The Sirenes Ithaki Yacht Club is upmarket with a nautical theme, but as usual the town's ancient kafenío one street back from the front is the spot for a quiet and inexpensive tipple with the locals.

There are two reasonable pebble beaches within fifteen-minutes' walk of Vathy: Dhéxa , over the hill above the ferry quay, and tiny Loútsa , opposite it around the bay. Better beaches at Sarakíniko and Skhinós to the south are an hour's trek along recently improved roads leaving the opposite side of the bay. In season, daily kaïkia ply between the quay and remote coves.