Epirus ( Ípiros in modern Greek) has the strongest regional identity in mainland Greece. It owes this character to an unrelentingly mountainous terrain: the rugged peaks and passes, forested ravines and turbulent rivers of the Píndhos (Pindus) range . They have always protected and isolated Epirus from outside interference, securing it a large measure of autonomy even under Ottoman rule.

 

Because of this remoteness, the region's role in Greek affairs was peripheral in ancient times. There are just four archeological sites of importance, two of them chosen by oracles for their isolation. At Dodona , the sanctuary includes a spectacular Classical theatre; at Ephyra , the weird remains of a Necromanteion (Oracle of the Dead) was touted by the ancients as the gateway to Hades. Kassopi and Nikopolis , both near Préveza, are more conventional ancient cities.

In more recent times, Lord Byron has been the region's greatest publicist. He passed through in 1809 when tyrannical local ruler Ali Pasha was at the height of his power, and the poet's tales of passionate intrigue, fierce-eyed brigandage and braggadocio sent a shiver down romantic western spines. Byron went on to distinguish himself in the southern province of Étolo-Akarnanía by supplying and training troops for the Greek War of Independence, and of course by dying during it at Mesolóngi .

Despite eventual Greek victory in the War of Independence, the Ottomans remained in Epirus, and were not finally ousted until March 1913. A disputed frontier territory throughout the nineteenth century, the region never recovered its medieval prosperity. When the Italians invaded in 1940, followed by the Germans in 1941, the Pindus mountains became first a stronghold of the Resistance, then a battleground for rival political factions and finally, after 1946, the chief bastion of the Communist Democratic Army in the civil war . The events of this period are among the saddest of modern Greek history, and still reverberate today, not least in Epirus's consistent ranking in European Union studies as one of the poorest parts of Western Europe.

However, for visitors the mountains remain the best place to head for in Epirus. The people - especially away from the most visited spots - are friendly and hospitable, and certain aspects of their traditional way of life are still in force. Latinate-speaking Vlach and Doric-speaking Sarakatsan shepherds continue to bring their flocks to the high mountain pastures in summer. Bears leave footprints on riverbanks or raid beehives, risking an (illegal) bullet in the head, while increasing numbers of wolves keep a hungry eye out for stray ewes and goats.

The best single area to visit is around mounts Gamíla and Smólikas , with the Aóös and Víkos gorges to walk through and the splendid villages of Zagóri to stay in. You have to explore on foot to get a full flavour of the place, and not surprisingly the Píndhos has become a popular hiking and trekking venue, with increasing international caché.

Some of the road itineraries offer less strenuous travelling highlights - above all the Kalambáka-Ioánnina highway as it negotiates the Katára pass , though this trunk route will soon be diverted via a tunnel, one of nearly sixty on the showcase Via Egnatia motorway , ostensibly due for completion before the 2004 Olympics but unlikely to be inaugurated before 2007. Roughly halfway between Ioánnina and the Metéora stands Métsovo , perhaps the easiest location for a taste of mountain life, though baldly commercialized of late. Ioánnina , Ali Pasha's capital, remains a town of some character, with its island and lake, and the main transport hub for trips into Zagóri. Other than Árta , prettily set and with some fine Byzantine churches, there are few urban attractions.

The coast , in both Epirus and Étolo-Akarnanía, is in general disappointing. Igoumenítsa is a useful ferry terminal for Corfu and Italy, but otherwise will win few admirers. Párga , the major Epirot resort, has been developed beyond its capacity, though Préveza has retained some character against the odds and is now a major gateway and nightspot for package-holiday patrons. Between these two towns is a series of attractive, sandy and not unduly developed beaches , while just inland beckons a scenic highlight - the gorge of the Aheróndas River .

South of Préveza, you enter a low, marshy landscape of lakes and landlocked gulfs hemmed in by bare hills - of interest mainly to the bird-watcher and fish-dinner enthusiast. For better beach escapes in this part of the world you need islands, fortunately close at hand in the Ionian group - Lefkádha is actually connected to the mainland by a moveable bridge.