South of a line connecting Monólithos and Lárdhos, you could easily begin to think you had strayed onto another island. Gone are most of the five-star hotels and roads to match, and with them the bulk of the crowds. Gone too are most other tourist facilities and public transport. Only one or two daily buses (in season) serve the depopulated villages here (except for Yennádhi), approaching along the east coast; tavernas grace the more popular stretches of sand, but aside from the growing package enclaves of Lárdhos, Péfki and Kiotári, there are few places to stay.

 

Despite the shelving of plans for a second island airport in the area, new beachfront development mushrooms to either side of LÁRDHOS , itself solidly on the tourist circuit despite an inland position between Láerma and the peninsula culminating in Líndhos. The beach 2km away is gravelly and dull, so it's best to continue 3km to Glystra cove, a small but delightful crescent, with umbrellas and a snack bar. Four kilometres east of Lárdhos, PÉFKI (Péfkos on some maps) began life as the garden annexe and overflow for Líndhos, but is now a burgeoning package resort in its own right; the sea is clearer than at Lárdhos, with small, well-hidden beaches which are getting harder to find with all the new development on the clifftop.