Psérimos could be an idyllic little island were it not so close to Kós and Kálymnos. Throughout the season, both of these larger neighbours dispatch daily excursion boats, which compete strenuously to dock at the small harbour village of AVLÁKIA . In midsummer, day-trippers blanket the main sandy beach which curves around the bay in front of Avlákia's thirty-odd houses and huge communal olive grove; even during May or late September you're guaranteed at least a hundred outsiders daily (versus a permanent population of 25). There's a couple of other, somewhat less-attractive beaches to hide away on during the day: clean Vathy (sand and gravel), a well-marked, thirty-minute path-walk east, starting from behind the Taverna Iy Pserimos , or grubbier Marathoúnda (pebble), a 45-minute walk north on the main trans-island track. Nowhere on Psérimos, including the monastery of Grafiótissa (big festival Aug 15), is much more than an hour's walk away.

 

Even during the season there won't be too many other overnighters, since there's a limited number of beds available, and your reception at some of the more put-upon snack bars may become warmer once it's clear that you're staying . Pick of the several small pensions is Tripolitis (tel 02430/23 196; up to ¬24), over English-speaking Nick and Anna's café-snack bar, or the rooms above Taverna Manola on the opposite end of the beach (tel 02430/51 540; up to ¬24), who also keep the plusher Studios Kalliston next door (¬24-33). There's just one small, limited-stock store , since most of the island's supplies are brought in daily from Kálymnos. Eating out however, won't break the bank, and there's often fresh fish in the handful of tavernas ; many of these have contracts with the tour boats, but Taverna Manola doesn't, and despite modest appearances proves very adept at ouzerí fare and seafood.

Nearly all the boats based on Kós and Kálymnos harbour operate triangle tours (approximately ¬17.50), which involve departure between 9.30am and 10am, followed by a stop for swimming on either Platy islet or adjacent Psérimos, lunch in Avlákia, or Póthia, the port of Kálymnos (or even on board), and another swimming stop at whichever islet wasn't visited in the morning. If you want to spend the entire day on Psérimos, you're much better off departing Póthia at 9.30am daily on the tiny Nissos Pserimos , returning at 4pm (¬6 round-trip). The islanders themselves use this boat to visit Kálymnos for shopping and administrative business; with just a bare handful of children, there is no longer a school on the island.