Pátmos, as a locally published guide once memorably proclaimed, "is immense for those who know how to wander in space and time". Lesser mortals may find it easier to get around on foot, or by bus. There's still scope for walking despite a dwindling network of paths; otherwise a single bus offers surprisingly reliable service between Skála, Hóra, Kámbos and Gríkou - the main stop, with a posted timetable, is right in front of the main ferry dock.

 

After its extraordinary atmosphere and magnificent scenery, beaches are Patmos's principal attraction. From Hóra, a paved road (partly shortcut by a path) winds east to the sandiest part of rather overdeveloped and cheerless GRÍKOU , the main venue for Patmian package tourism - and shut tight as a drum come late September. The beach itself, far from the island's best, forms a narrow strip of hard-packed sand giving way to large pebbles towards the south. En route you pass the hillside Flisvos (aka Floros ) taverna, going since the 1960s with a limited choice of inexpensive, savoury mayireftá , served on the terrace; they also have simple rooms (up to 24) and fancier apartments (43-58) - reserve on 02470/31 380, fax 32 094. Another good accommodation option here, open late in the year and not monopolized by packages, is the hillside Hotel Golden Sun (tel 02470/32 318, fax 34 019; 59-72), with most rooms facing the water.

From Hóra, you can ride a scooter over as far as the Dhiakoftí isthmus, beyond which a thirty-minute walk southwest leads to Psilí Ámmos beach. This is the only pure-sand cove on the island, with shade lent by tamarisks, nudism galore at the far south end and a good lunchtime taverna that occasionally does roast goat, freshly shot on the surrounding hills. There's also a summer kaïki service here from Skála, departing by 10am and returning at 5pm.

More good beaches are to be found in the north of the island, tucked into the startling eastern shoreline (west-facing bays are uniformly unusable owing to wind and washed-up debris); most are accessible from side roads off the main route north from Skála. Melóï is handy and quite appealing, with tamarisks behind the slender belt of sand, and good snorkelling offshore. The first beach beyond Méloï, Agriolivádhi (Agriolívadho) , has mostly sand at its broad centre, kayak rental, and two tavernas: one at mid-beach, the other ( O Glaros , doing fish) on the south hillside. Hilltop Kámbos is the only other real village on the island, the focus of scattered farms in little oases all around; Kámbos beach, 600m downhill, is popular with Greeks, and the most developed remote resort on the island, with seasonal watersports facilities and tavernas (best of these Ta Kavourakia ), though its appeal is diminished by the road just inland and a rock shelf in the shallows.

East of Kámbos are several less-frequented coves, including pebble Vayiá , nudist Liyínou and sand-and-gravel Livádhi Yeranoú , the latter with more tamarisks, an excellent namesake taverna doing simple but clean grills and salads, and an islet to swim out to. From lower Kámbos you can also journey north to the bay of Lámbi , best for swimming when the prevailing wind is from the south, and renowned for an abundance of multicoloured volcanic stones - as well as one of the best beach tavernas on the island, Lambi-Leonidas , open May to October, with a wide range of fish, mezédhes and grilled meat.