Most of the appeal of the capital, FRY , is confined to the immediate environs of the wedge-shaped fishing port of Boúka , protected from the sea by two crab-claws of breakwater and overlooked by the cathedral of Áyios Spyrídhon. Inland, Fry is engagingly unpretentious, even down-at-heel; there are no concessions to tourism, and little attempt has been made to prettify an essentially scruffy little town that's quite desolate out of season. Somewhat overpriced accommodation is found at the seafront hotels Anagenissis (tel 02450/41 495, fax 41 036, www.kassos-island.gr ; 24-33) and, just behind with fewer views, the less expensive, all-en-suite Anessis (tel 02450/41 201, fax 41 730; 24-33). The manager of the Anagenissis also has a few pricier apartments, and runs the all-in-one travel agency just below (though Olympic has its own premises two doors down). Both hotels tend to be noisy owing to morning bustle on the waterfront - and the phenomenal number of small but lively fast-food joints and café-bars in town, some right underneath. During high season a few rooms operate; these tend to be more expensive and mostly located in the suburb of Emboriós, fifteen-minute's walk east.

 

Outside of peak season, Fry can support only one full-service taverna : O Mylos , overlooking the intermittent harbour works. Luckily it's excellent and reasonable, with a good variety of daily-special mayireftá at lunch and sometimes fish grills by night. From late June to early September you can also try Iy Oraia Bouka , perched above Boúka, or To Meltemi ouzerí, on the way to Emboriós. In Emboriós itself, only Ta Tessera Adherfia by the palm-tree church shows any sign of life outside of summer. Shops in Fry, including two fruit stalls, are fairly well stocked for self-catering.