The southern extremity of Kárpathos, towards the airport, is extraordinarily desolate and windswept. There's a couple of relatively undeveloped sandy beaches - in particular Makrys Yialós - on the southeast coast in the region known as Amfiárti, but they're only really attractive to foreign windsurfers who come to take advantage of the prevailing northwesterlies. Most people go no further in this direction than AMMOPÍ , just 7km from Pigádhia. This, together with the development at Vróndi and Arkássa, is the closest thing on Kárpathos to a purpose-built beach resort. The two sand-and-gravel, tree-fringed coves are bordered by half a dozen tavernas and increasing numbers of hotels and rooms - recommendable among these, not dominated by packages, are the Votsalakia Rooms (tel 02450/22 204; ¬24-33) and the Sunflower Studios (tel & fax 02450/81 019; ¬24-33). West out of Pigádhia the road climbs steeply 9km up to MENETÉS , an appealing ridgetop village with handsome old houses, a tiny folklore museum and a spectacularly sited church. There are two tavernas here ( Koula and Ta Dhyo Adhelfia ) and a World War II memorial with sweeping views north.

 

Beyond Menetés, you descend to ARKÁSSA , on the slopes of a ravine draining to the west coast, with excellent views to Kássos en route. Despite just one good nearby beach interrupting a mostly rocky shore, Arkássa has been heavily developed, with hotels and restaurants sprouting in clusters. Much of the accommodation is aimed squarely at the package market, but independent travellers could try the en-suite Hotel Dimitrios (tel 02450/61 353, fax 61 249; ¬24-33 including breakfast), or the Seaside Studios (tel 02450/61 421; ¬24-33) above Áyios Nikólaos beach signposted just south, a 600-metre stretch of sand - rare here abouts - with a single taverna. Most other tavernas lie north of the ravine in the village centre, for example the durable Petaloudha on the dead-end access street.

A few hundred metres south of where the ravine meets the sea, a signposted cement side road leads briefly to the whitewashed chapel of Ayía Sofía , marooned amidst various remains of Classical and Byzantine Arkessia. These consist of several mosaic floors with geometric patterns, including one running diagonally under the floor of a half-buried chapel, emerging from the walls on either side. The Paleókastro headland beyond was the site of Mycenaean Arkessia; the walk up is again signposted, but scarcely worth it for the sight of a few stretches of polygonal wall and a couple of tumbled columns.

The tiny fishing port of FINÍKI , just a couple of kilometres north, offers a minuscule beach, fairly regular excursions to Kássos, half a dozen tavernas and several rooms/studios establishments. Accommodation includes Giavasis Studios (tel 02450/61 365; ¬24-33), on the road to the jetty, or for more comfort and value the well-designed and -built Arhontiko Studios up on the main bypass road (tel 02450/61 473, fax 61 054; ¬34-42). Iy Marina and To Dhelfini are currently the most salubrious eateries in Finíki, though there's another well-loved one, Kostas , 500m north under two tamarisks at reefy Kamarákia beach.

The west-coast road is asphalted all the way to the turning for the attractive resort of PARALIÁ LEFKOÚ , shore annexe of the inland hamlet of Lefkós. Although this is a delightful place for flopping on the beach, only three weekly buses call, and Paralía Lefkoú marks the furthest point you can reach from Pighádhia on a small motorbike and return safely without running out of fuel. However, any effort will be rewarded by the striking topography of cliffs, hills, islets and sandspits surrounding a triple bay. There are now over two dozen places to stay, and perhaps half as many tavernas, but package companies tend to monopolize the better accommodation from June to September. Exceptions include the Akroyiali Studios (tel 02450/71 178; up to ¬24), on a stonier, fourth bay just south off the access road, and the spartan but en-suite Sunweek Studios (tel 02450/71 025; up to ¬24), above Zorbas taverna on the seaward promontory. On the said promontory you'll find the most authentic eating option, the seafood-rich Steki tou Kalymnou .

Back on the main road, you climb northeast through one of the few sections of Karpathian pine forest not scarred by fire to MESOHÓRI . The village tumbles down towards the sea around narrow, stepped alleys, coming to an abrupt halt at the edge of a flat-topped bluff dotted with three tiny, ancient chapels and separated from the village proper by a vast oasis of orchards. These are nurtured by the fountain (best water on the island) underneath the church of Panayía Vryssianí , wedged against the mountainside just east and invisible from the end of the access road. On the stair-street leading to this church is an excellent taverna, the Dhramoundana , remarkably reasonable for Kárpathos, and featuring local capers, sausages and marinated "sardines" (really a larger fish, menoúla ). The paved main road continues over the island's watershed to Spóa, overlooking the east coast.