The main harbour of SKÁLA or Péra Yialós dates from the Italian era (Astypálea was the first island the Italians occupied in the Dodecanese) and most of the settlement between the quay and the line of nine windmills is even more recent. Its only real bright spot is a 1998-inaugurated archeological museum (June-Sept Tues-Sun 8am-2pm & 6pm-midnight, Oct-May Tues-Sun 8am-2pm; free), a single well-lit room crammed with the best local finds spanning all historical periods from the Bronze Age to medieval times.

 

As you climb up beyond the port towards HÓRA , however, the neighbourhoods get progressively older and more attractive, their steep streets enlivened by the photogenic poúndia , or colourful wooden balconies-with-stairways of the whitewashed houses, which owe much to the building styles of Mykonos and Tínos, the origins of the colonists brought to repopulate the island in 1413. The whole culminates in the thirteenth-century kástro , one of the finest in the Aegean, erected not by the Knights but by the Venetian Quirini clan and subsequently modified by the Ottomans after 1537. Until well into the twentieth century over three hundred people lived inside the kástro , but depopulation and a severe 1956 earthquake combined to leave only a desolate shell today. The fine rib vaulting over the main west gate supports the church of Evangelístria Kastrianí, one of two intact here, the other being Áyios Yeóryios (both usually locked). Currently the kástro grounds are in the throes of a consolidation and restoration project undertaken by the Byzantine antiquities authority, designed to keep the perimeter fortifications from crumbling further.

Skála, and to a lesser extent Hóra, have accommodation ranging from spartan, 1970s-vintage rooms to new luxury studios; proprietors tend not to meet ferries unless arrangements have been made, even if they have vacancies. Owing to high-season harbour noise - particularly the sound of ferries dropping anchor at 3am - you might prefer more atmospheric restored studios or entire houses (73.50 for 2 peak season, but just 29.40 low) up in Hóra if uninterrupted sleep is a priority; enquire at Kostas Vaïkousis' antique shop on the quay or reserve in advance on 02430/61 430. Rather plusher are the 2000-built Kilindra Studios on the quiet west slope of Hóra (tel 02430/61 966, fax 61 131, http://astypalea.com/kilindra ; open all year), offering luxury amenities including a swimming pool - units accommodate two to four people, with the smallest at 88 (59 low season).

Otherwise, the obvious, bog-standard port hotels are the 1993-refurbished Astynea (tel 02430/61 040, fax 61 209; 34-42) and the elderly but fairly well-kept Paradisos (tel 02430/61 224, fax 61 450; 34-42), both en-suite with sea views. Of two backpackers' standbys on the east shore of the bay, Akti Rooms (tel 02430/61 281; 43-58) are much better equipped and maintained than the misnamed Karlos Studios (tel 02460/61 330; 34-42), actually large rooms which are only worth it if you get a seaview unit. A small, basic, seasonal campsite operates amongst calamus reeds and tamarisks behind Dhéftero Marmári Bay, about 4km along the road to Análipsi, but it can be mosquito-plagued any year after a wet winter (an increasingly rare occurrence).

During August, upwards of 25 tavernas and beach snack-bars operate across the island, few of them memorable and many concerned primarily with turning a quick profit. Among the more reliable Skála options, Iy Monaxia (aka Viki's ), one block inland from the ferry jetty by the old power plant, has excellent home-style cooking and is open all year round. The Astropalia (closes end Sept) on the hillside above the street up to Hóra, does good, if somewhat pricey, fish and not much else; there's even better seafood, and superbly prepared own-grown vegetable dishes, at the homey Australia (open all year), just inland from the head of the bay. Behind the Hotel Paradhisos , you'll find more careful cooking, polished presentation (and much higher prices) at Aitherio and Maïstrali (both open into Oct); it's pot-luck as to which is better any given night. Under the Astynea you'll find two more worthy options: To Steki for grills, and the Dapia Café , for full breakfasts, midday crepes and homemade ice cream.

Most nightlife happens up in more atmospheric Hóra, where the esplanade between the windmills and the base of the kástro seems to be one solid café-bar. Of these, the favourites are the unsigned Tou Nikola ( Iy Myli ) on the corner, with the island's characters in residence, and the all-purpose Aigaion on the opposite side, which does snacks in season. All these are joined in season by music bars such as long-lived Kastro , best for conversation-level music, and the newer Panorama where the island's youth hang out until dawn. The post office and most shops are here, though the island's only bank (Emboriki/Commercial), complete with cash dispenser, is down in Skála by the port police.

Two buses run along the paved road between Hóra, Skála, Livádhia and Analípsi, frequently in July and August from 8am until 11pm, much less regularly out of season. There are only two official taxis , far too few to cope with passenger numbers in season; several places rent out scooters , the most reliable being Lakis and Manolis (tel 02430/61 263), with branches at Hóra and Skála dock, and also renting out a few cars and jeeps. The island map sold locally is grossly inaccurate, even by lenient Greek-island standards, though in compensation rural junctions are adequately signposted.