Named after the circle they form around the sacred island of Delos, the Cyclades (Kykládhes) is the most satisfying Greek archipelago for island-hopping. On no other group do you get quite such a strong feeling of each island as a microcosm, each with its own distinct traditions, customs and path of modern development. Most of these self-contained realms are compact enough to walk around in a few days, giving you a sense of completeness and identity impossible on, say, Crete or most of the Ionian islands.

 

The islands do share some features, with the majority of them (Ándhros, Náxos, Sérifos and Kéa excepted) being arid and rocky; most also share the "Cycladic" style of brilliant-white, Cubist architecture. The extent and impact of tourism, though, is markedly haphazard, so that although some English is spoken on most islands, a slight detour from the beaten track - from Íos to Síkinos, for example - can have you groping for your Greek phrasebook.

But whatever the level of tourist development, there are only two islands where it has come completely to dominate their character: Íos , the original hippie-island and still a paradise for hard-drinking backpackers, and Mykonos , by far the most popular of the group, with its teeming old town, selection of nude beaches and sophisticated clubs and gay bars. After these two, Páros, Sífnos, Náxos and Thíra (Santoríni) are currently the most popular, with their beaches and main towns drastically overcrowded at the height of the season. To avoid the hordes altogether - except in August, when nearly everywhere is overrun and escape is impossible - the most promising islands are Síkinos, Kímolos or Anáfi , or the minor islets around Náxos. For a different view of the Cyclades, visit Tínos and its imposing pilgrimage church, a major spiritual centre of Greek Orthodoxy, or Syros with its elegant townscape and (like Tínos) large Catholic minority. Due to their closeness to Athens, adjacent Kythnos and Kéa are predictably popular - and relatively expensive - weekend havens for Greeks. The one major ancient site is Delos (Dhílos), certainly worth making time for: the commercial and religious centre of the Classical Greek world, it's visited most easily on a day-trip, by kaïki or jet boat from Mykonos.

When it comes to moving on , many of the islands - in particular Mílos, Páros, Náxos and Thíra - are handily connected with Crete (easier in season), while from Tínos, Mykonos, Syros, Páros, Náxos, Thíra or Amorgós you can reach many of the Dodecanese by direct boat. Similarly, you can regularly get from Mykonos, Náxos, Syros and Páros to Ikaría and Sámos (in the eastern Aegean).

One consideration for the timing of your visit is that the Cyclades often get frustratingly stormy , particularly in early spring or late autumn, and it's also the group worst affected by the meltémi , which blows sand and tables about with ease throughout much of July and August. Delayed or cancelled ferries are not uncommon, so if you're heading back to Athens to catch a flight leave yourself a day or two's leeway.