The relatively low, narrow section of Crete which separates the Psilorítis range from the White Mountains in the west seems at first a nondescript, even dull part of the island. Certainly in scenic terms it has few of the excitements that the west can offer; there are no major archeological sites and many of the villages seem modern and ugly. On the other hand, Réthymnon itself is an attractive and lively city, with some excellent beaches nearby. And on the south coast, in particular around Plakiás , there are beaches as fine as any Crete can offer, and as you drive towards them the scenery and villages improve by the minute.