From Haniá the Gorge of Samariá (May-Oct; ¬3.60 for entry to the national park) can be visited as a day-trip or as part of a longer excursion to the south. At 18km, it's Europe's longest gorge and is startlingly beautiful. In the June to August period (ring Haniá tourist office for other times) buses leave Haniá bus station for the top at 6.15am, 7.30am, 8.30am and 1.30pm (this latter service changes to 4.30pm outside school term time), depositing you at the gorge entrance and then collecting you at the port of Hóra Sfakíon for the return trip to Haniá. Should you take the last bus you will need to spend a night at Ayía Rouméli (the end of the gorge) as you will not get through the gorge in time for the last boat. For the three early buses you'll normally be sold a return ticket (valid from Hóra Sfakíon at any time). It's well worth catching the earliest bus to avoid the full heat of the day while walking through the gorge, though be warned that you will not be alone - there are often as many as five coachloads setting off before dawn for the nail-biting climb into the White Mountains. There are also direct early-morning buses from Iráklion and Réthymnon and bus tours from virtually everywhere on the island, adding up to a couple of thousand plus walkers on most days during high season.

 

Despite all the crowds, the walk is hard work, especially in spring when the stream is a roaring torrent. Early and late in the season, there is a danger of flash floods , which are not to be taken lightly: in 1993, a number of walkers perished when they were washed out to sea. For this reason the first and last three weeks of the season are entirely dependent on the weather and you will only be allowed into the gorge if the authorities deem it safe. If in doubt (and to save yourself a wasted journey), phone the Haniá Forest Service's gorge information number (tel 08210/67 140) or the gorge office (tel 08210/67 179) for information. Should you arrive after 4pm you will only be allowed into the first couple of kilometres from each end of the gorge and the wardens ensure that no one remains in the gorge overnight, where camping is strictly forbidden.