Apart from being Crete's most westerly town, and the end of the main E65 coastal highway, KASTÉLLI (Kíssamos, or Kastélli Kissámou as it's variously known) has little obvious attraction. It's a busy town with a rocky central beach (although there's an excellent sandy beach to the west) visited mainly by people using the boat that runs twice weekly to the island of Kythira and the Peloponnese. The very ordinariness of Kastélli, however, can be attractive: life goes on pretty much regardless of outsiders, and there's every facility you might need. The town was important in antiquity and a number of recently excavated mosaics are visible around the centre (follow the signs) and finds from these digs and others nearby are to be displayed in the town's new museum (due to open sometime in 2002) located in the refurbished former Venetian governor's residence on the main square.

 

As regards practicalities, the ferry agent's office in Kastélli is one block inland from the main square, Platía Kastellíou (Xirouxákis; tel 08220/22 655). The ferry dock lies 2km west of town - a significant walk if you're heavily laden, or an inexpensive taxi ride. For rooms , Vergerakis (aka Jimmy's ; tel 08220/22 663; up to ¬24) has clean and simple rooms on the main square, but the more attractive option is the excellent Hotel Galini Beach (tel 08220/23 288, fax 23 388, www.galinibeach.com ; ¬24-33) at the east end of the seafront near the sports stadium, or Maria Beach (tel 08220/22 610 fax 23 626; ¬24-33) with some much cheaper rooms which you need to ask for on the town's sandy western beach. Heading north from the main square brings you to the beach promenade where there are a number of tavernas - To Kelari is worth a try - and late-night drinking and music bars popular with the local younger set, particularly at weekends.